Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac

The 2000 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is spectacular, and certainly a noteworthy rival to the 1996, 1995, and even the extraordinary 1982. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, this effort has a dense saturated purple color, a singular/distinctive yet possibly controversial aromatic smorgasbord existing of creme de cassis, vanilla, and violets, but also tapenade and tree bark. No doubt the Petit Verdot has imparted a certain almost olive-like component to the wine’s aromatic profile. As the 2000 sits in the glass, notes of lavender and melted licorice emerge along with the distinctive tapenade aromas interwoven with creme de cassis, espresso roast, and cedar. The wine is full-bodied, with extraordinary purity and a tremendous texture. I suspect this wine will be relatively approachable young but evolve effortlessly. This is a dramatic, almost flamboyant style that is not classic Pauillac in one sense, but a classic wine. Anticipated maturity: 2007–2025.

[Barrel tasting] Mega-Cabernet here. It’s like pure juice. Brutish. Very grapey. Full-bodied, with loads of fruit. Big and tannic. A wild wine.

Classic character. Intense aromas of currant and minerals follow through to full-bodied palate, with loads of velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Some people find this herbaceous, but it reminds me of a currant bush more than something green. This character is due to a higher percent of Petit Verdot than normal. Muscular Pichon. Best after 2010.

Good full medium ruby. Rather wild aromas of plum, black raspberry, lead pencil, tobacco, minerals and roasted game. Sweet, thick and complex, with very ripe, mellow flavors of black raspberry, truffle, roasted herbs, espresso and tobacco. Will rely more on its firm tannins than its rather soft, harmonious acids for longevity. This very persistent wine may be starting to shut down in the bottle, but it displays the lovely penetrating sweetness of the year.

The aristocratic structure is there, even if this wine shows youthfully green — both in the stemminess of the young merlot fruit, and the green edge of the tannin. This is tight and lean in structure, with red fruit that shows plenty of staying power. It’s the red fruit that lasts now, and will last as it ages. Staunchly Bordelais, this shows great length and harmony.