Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir

Smooth and round, with a lovely polished feel to the dark berry, cherry, licorice and spice flavors, flowing easily over finely tuned tannins, persisting expressively. Drink now through 2016.

The 2006 Evenstad Reserve is a blend of over 70 lots. Medium ruby-colored, it offers notes of cedar, cinnamon, clove, cassis, and raspberry. This is followed by a medium- to full-bodied wine with layers of complex red fruits, enough structure to evolve for 3–4 years, excellent integration of oak, tannin, and acidity, and a lengthy finish. Drink it from 2010 to 2018. Domaine Serene has turned out its most successful set of Pinot Noirs in several vintages.

Serene’s flagship reserve is forward and ripe, the red berry and woodsy scents marked by oak. Yet the wine retains a pleasing lift, the black cherry flavors brightening with air and the acidity fresh and clean. A fine pairing with risotto con funghi.

As with most of Oregon’s 2006 Pinots, this shows more grip and fullness than the winery’s ’07. There’s a strong smoky character, presumably from barrel toast, and a thick and chewy midpalate of mixed berries and tart cherry fruit. The acids stick out a bit, but the dominant flavor is cherry, with a spicy herbal edge.