San Felice Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni is a huge wine bursting with dark red cherries, plums, licorice, new leather and spices. This is an especially big, voluminous style built on extroverted fruit and sheer richness, but it all works. The weight of the vintage comes through in the wine's glycerin. Anticipated maturity: 2014–2022.

Medium red. Cherry, plum, underbrush, licorice and herbs on the nose; hints at a liqueur-like ripeness. Very sweet and pliant, even glyceral, on entry, but strong, integrated acidity gives the middle palate a penetrating quality. Just a hint of raisiny ripeness here but the wine’s liqueur-like sweetness gives it significant early appeal and the stuffing for mid-term development. Finishes with substantial building, ripe tannins and plenty of acidity.

Inky-dark and superconcentrated. Notes of coal, licorice, crushed peppercorn, river stone and dark fruit are so big and bold, it’s hard to imagine with which foods it would pair best.

This red reveals ripe plum, tobacco and leafy, herbal aromas and flavors, backed by assertive, dusty tannins. An elegant wine, with a tight grip on the finish. Best from 2015 through 2026.