Valdespino Inocente Fino | Dry Sherry NV / 375 ml.

The NV Fino Inocente must be one of the few wines in Jerez that is still fermented in 600-liter American oak botas, which is an incredible amount of work compared with fermenting tens of thousands of kilos of grapes (or even more) in a big stainless steel tank. This method was the norm of yesteryear, but is so labor intense that it was discontinued in most wineries, and gives a big diversity of wines, as each barrel has its own character, which contributes to the complexity of the blend. Furthermore, the bottled wine is on average 8 to 10 years old. One other thing that makes it apart from other Finos is that the grapes are exclusively from the high part of the Macharnudo vineyard, so this is a single-vineyard Fino. The nose is very complex, showing the effect of the long lees contact: chalk, dried hay, aromatic herbs and salty almonds. The palate is full, but at the same time elegant and balanced, powerful and fine, with the texture of a Meursault rather than a Puligny. A very complex wine, that manages to be both powerful and elegant. Inocente is great value for money. Drink 2013–2016.

Inocente is one of the only Fino Sherries (and perhaps the only one) that still follows the tradition of fermentation in wood. The slow exposure to oxygen as it ages in barrels increases the wine’s aromatic complexity, the notes fanning out beyond salt and citrus toward herbs and smoke. It feels tense and firm, driven by electric acidity, ready for tapas, like boquerones or fried baitfish.

High-pitched, featuring talc, chamomile, chalk and jicama notes, followed by a pure, stone-tinged finish. Very graceful, lacy and long. Drink now. 2,500 cases made.

Delicate and bright, with green olive, iodine and a touch of the seashore. It ends with a crisp finish and saline taste. Drink now. 200 cases imported.